Tag Archives: Coastline Cottages

Ghost Ship

By Ed Staskus

   Oliver could never afterwards remember exactly how it happened. One minute he was standing at the railing of the MV Confederation in the moonlight listening to an old man with a scraggy face telling him a story about rum runners and the next minute he was on the wrong side of the railing. He fell into the Northumberland Strait, a tidal body of the Atlantic Ocean that separates Prince Edward Island from the mainland. 

   “Swim to that ghost ship,” the old man shouted down to him. “There, where you see the flames. I’ll find the skipper of this here boat, we’ll come back for you.”

   “No, wait, throw me a life preserver first!” Oliver shouted, but by then the man was gone. The boat continued on its way, leaving him behind. He kicked his shoes off and stripped off his clothes, except for his underwear.

   That’s better, he thought, dog paddling.

   The MV Confederation was a roll-on roll-off ferry. It could hold six hundred passengers and more than two hundred cars. It sailed from Caribou, Nova Scotia to Wood Islands on Prince Edward Island eight times a day in the summer. The crossing took about an hour-and-a-half. 

   Oliver, his sister Emma, and their father and mother were on the last departure of the day from Nova Scotia. It was their second trip to the island, although they had taken the 8-mile long Confederation Bridge from New Brunswick their first time the previous year. They had spent a week at the Coastline Cottages in North Rustico. They soaked up Atlantic Canada and were back for more.

   The ghost ship was a half mile away. Oliver had been taking swimming lessons at the Lake County YMCA in Painesville the past two years. The first stroke he had learned was the front crawl and it was still the stroke he was best at. Even though he had only swum in untroubled open water on Lake Erie at the Mentor Headlands State Park, he thought he could make it, ocean or no ocean. The water wasn’t especially cold or wavy, although it was salty, which he wasn’t used to. He spit out what was in his mouth. 

   Lake Erie was full of perch and walleye. His father sometimes took the family to Pickle Bills in Grand River for a perch platter. His mother didn’t like walleye. She said the fish was too fishy for her, so they always had perch. One of their neighbors in Perry, where they lived in Ohio, was Polish. He always said, “Fish, to taste right, must swim three times, in water, in butter, and in wine.”

   What was in the water of the Northumberland Strait? He thought there were probably cod, bass, and mackerel. He hoped the West Point Sea Serpent wasn’t around, or the barrel thick sea worms he had heard about. He didn’t especially like worms, to begin with, and was sure he wouldn’t like a big sea worm bearing down on him, at all

   He started towards the ghost ship, slow and steady, not trying to rush the crawl. He got there in twenty minutes. When he got close to it he noticed the flames engulfing the ship didn’t feel hot, or even warm. There wasn’t any smoke, either. It was flying a tattered distress flag. The flag was upside down.  He flipped over on his back and looked up the side of the starboard side of the  boat. It was a three-masted sailing schooner. A face appeared at the gunwale. It was the old man with the scraggy face.

   “What you be doing in the water there, boy?”

   “I fell off that ferry,” Oliver said, pointing to it in the distance. It didn’t seem to be turning around.

   “I don’t see no ferry.”

   “All right, but can you help me get out of this water?”

   “Look to yourself, boy, the devil is loose.” His voice had the sound of an unfriendly cackle in the dark. Oliver wasn’t sure he liked that.

   “What does that mean?” he asked, but the old man had fallen silent. Just then he heard ripples. He looked over his shoulder. It was a barrel thick sea worm bearing down on him. He made for the Jacob’s ladder on the side of the ship and clambered aboard the schooner.

   The old man with the scraggy face was perched on a barrel. It was a provision tub filled with salt pork. His eyes were shiny and sharp as the tip of an icepick. There was a clay pipe in his hand. It was a nose-warmer kind of clay pipe. It was filled with plug tobacco that had been soaked in molasses. There was a wooden piggin of grog in his other hand. 

   “Never trust a fighting man who doesn’t smoke or drink,” he said.

   The helmsman on the aft deck was staring straight ahead, his line of sight far past the booms and sails. Three dogs were chasing one another from one end of the ship to the other. A knot of sailors were at the main deck hatch covers, playing cards on the flat wooden surfaces that doubled as tables. They were playing whist, some copper and silver coins scattered about, along with slips of paper, which were IOU’s for future rations.

   All the while the sailing schooner was burning, although it didn’t seem to have any effect on anybody or anything.

   “What is this ship?” Oliver asked.

   “Some along the New Brunswick  coast, they say we be the John Craig Light, a ship that wrecked off Shippigan Island. Other herring chokers on that coast say we be the Colbum, lost in a storm in 1838. Over in Pictou, down there in the Scotia lands, I have heard them say we are a contraband runner once bound for Scotland, but never heard of again. It’s all false reckonings. What we are is the Isabella. We left Charlottetown for South America in 1868, loaded with lumber. We was last seen outside the harbor by the lighthouse keeper at Amnet Island. We was never seen again, but the lumber we was carrying still burns, boy.”

   “Oh, I see, well, that’s very interesting, but I’ve got to get to Wood Islands, my parents will be worried sick if they can’t find me. Do you have an inflatable life raft with an onboard motor I could borrow?”

   “Inflatable?”

   “You know, a rubber boat you blow up with CO2 when there’s an emergency.”

   “Are you are spinning me a yarn, boy?”

   “No, I don’t have time for that, I’ve got to get going.”

   “There is no going anywhere once you be on the Isabella. We need help in the galley and you will do.”

   “What kind of help?”

   “Lighting fires, peeling vegetables and potatoes, scraping mess kits, and then there’s carrying food and drink from the galley to the crew topside, and after that there’s swabbing the decks and hauling rope up the ratlines. We will make a reefer of you soon enough.”

   “I can’t do that, whatever all that is. I’m in fifth grade. School starts right after we get home.”

   “Your lessons start right here, right now.”

   The schooner lurched forward suddenly, picking up speed, even though it was going against the wind. Oliver looked around. He had to get off the ship. He saw a rope dangling from the stern. At the other end of the rope was a yawl being towed. He ran to the stern, found a rigging knife, cut the rope, and  jumped off the ship into the yawl. There was a monkey jacket tucked under the sternsheets. He put it on and started rowing.

   It was a clear night and he didn’t have any trouble finding Wood Islands. He landed at the lighthouse, walked up a provincial park trail lit by moonlight to the terminal, and spotted the family Jeep Cherokee in the parking lot.

   “Where have you been?” his mother asked. “Why are you wet? What happened to your shoes? And where did you get that ratty coat?”

   Oliver hit the sack as soon as they got to the Coastline Cottages and slept like a log. It was later in the week that he, Emma, and their parents were at the Stanley Bridge Hall for a ceilidh, Scottish and Irish folk songs on fiddle, guitar, accordion, whistle, and occasional bodhran. Lennie Gallant, a singer songwriter from nearby Rustico, was on stage, telling stories and singing songs. When he broke out into “Tales of the Phantom Ship” Oliver pricked up his ears.

   “There’s a burst of flame and a flash of light, and there on the tide is a frightening sight, as a tall ship all aflame lights up the sky, tales of the phantom ship, from truck to keel in flames, she sails the wide Northumberland Strait, no one knows her name.”

   “Isabella,” Oliver called out, jumping to his feet. “It’s the Isabella.”

   “Yes?” a voice beside him said.

   He looked down at the voice. A dark-haired girl around his own age was looking up at him from her seat. She flashed a smile at him.

   “I am Isabella,” she said.

Ed Staskus posts monthly on 147 Stanley Street at http://www.147stanleystreet.com, Made in Cleveland at http://www.clevelandohiodaybook.com, Down East at http://www.redroadpei.com, and Lithuanian Journal at http://www.lithuanianjournal.com. To get the site’s monthly feature in your in-box click on “Follow.” His books are available on Amazon and Apple Books.

“Ebb Tide”

Summer, 1989. North Rustico, a small town on the north coast of Prince Edward Island. Crooked money on the move gone missing. A double cross and muscle from Montreal. One RCMP constable working the back roads stands in the way.

A Crying of Lot 49 Publication

Cabin Fever

By Ed Staskus

The nearly 80,000 people who plug away every day on Prince Edward Island go to work in lots of places, including groceries school offices, aerospace and bioscience and pouring coffee and serving breakfast, but mostly in agriculture, fisheries, and tourism.

Grains, fruits, and potatoes lead production on farms, bringing in cash receipts of about $500 million.  “Good soil is better than money in the bank” was once a commonly used expression on Prince Edward Island. It is still true, although it doesn’t hurt to have a bundle in the bank, something for a rainy day.

The lobster fishery lands 40 million-some pounds, valued at more than $200 million. Every last person on PEI is too few to eat all the lobster, so exports are vital. There are more than 4,000 commercial fishers and 47 licensed processing facilities. The enterprise employs as many as 8,000 people during peak production times.

Tourism rounds out the big three. A million-and-a-half visitors come from all over the world to golf, eat, relax, and experience “Anne of Green Gables.” It is far more come and go in summertime than lives on the island.

When you live and work on PEI summer starts when the snow melts and the days get longer. If you are in a business dependent on tourism, ice cream theaters restaurants transportation accommodation, summer starts when summer is over.

Tourism on PEI generates 15,000 to 17,000 full-time, part-time, and seasonal jobs. When summer is over many in the trade go somewhere starting in mid-autumn, looking for a few weeks of summer in another country. The sweltering heat of Cuba is a sticky thing, but it is super in winter, when there are plenty of dry sunny days and lots of blue sky.

Visiting Prince Edward Island in summer means warm enough to go to the beach, swim sail kayak, and go walking, running, and biking. There are plenty of days in July and August when t-shirts and short sleeves are the order of the day, and maybe a pullover for cooler nights. It’s about four months on PEI of being able to get out the door and outdoors.

It is aces having a big cabin if you get cabin fever. But nothing is as wide open big as being out in the open air. Besides, not everyone has a big cabin, or a cabin big enough. Even the largest cabin is dwarfed by the overarching sky.

Yoga means “to yoke.” Even though nobody gets paid for doing it, it is a kind of work. It is also its own reward.

Most people consider yoga an indoor activity. It is mostly practiced indoors, the weather being what it is in North America. Yoga studios are almost always inside buildings, anyway. That is a good thing if it’s the middle of winter in Vermont, or the armpit of summer in Mississippi, or fall winter a wet spring on Prince Edward Island.

Almost 120 inches of snow falls during the winter on PEI. Skiers going to Vermont are happy if 80 inches has fallen during the season. The wind off the ocean can make everything feel colder than it is on the island. Sometimes harbors are still frozen stiff into May.

That was why Frank and Vera Glass never left northern Ohio on the edge of Lake Erie to go to Prince Edward Island until June. Although it was never a sure thing, they tried to make sure they could get outside as much as possible.

Doing yoga indoors means being able to practice in the middle of a blizzard or a thunderstorm, or even a light sprinkle. It means doing it in a space set aside for exercise and breathwork, or just meditation, without interruption. It means being able to be consistent in one’s effort, a good habit thought to be fundamental to gaining ground.

No rain checks are ever needed when unrolling a mat at your local studio or your rec room. They are private spaces, spaces in which the environment is controlled. If you’re looking for insight, lightning might strike, but it won’t be literal lightning. If you’re just looking for a dry place to exercise, you’re in the right place.

Some yoga, like Bikram Yoga, is only done indoors only, in sealed-up steam-filled rooms, like heat-ravaged parts of the world in the grip of a climate change event, when you might as well be outside. Even then it probably wouldn’t live up to what Bikram Choudhury, the eccentric mastermind of hot room yoga, calls his “torture chambers.”

K. P. Jois, the man who inspired and developed Ashtanga Yoga, on which most yoga exercise of the last half-century is based, recommended that it be practiced indoors.

“Outside don’t take,” he said. “First floor is a good place. Don’t go upstairs, don’t go downstairs.” When asked about yogis in in the past practicing in the forest, he simply said, “That is very bad.” K. P. Jois was a man of few words.

Even though there are problems associated with practicing outdoors, including that it will inevitably defy the weather forecast and rain the one day you try it, people do it all the time. Southern California is littered with classes like ‘Beach Yoga with Brad.’

“Ditch the confines of the indoors!” recommended CBS-TV Los Angeles, reporting from the great outdoors.

“If you’re doing yoga indoors then you’re cheating yourself,” said Sarah Stevenson, a Yoga Alliance-certified instructor in Orange County. “The sun’s rays and fresh air provide not only improved physical health, but also spiritual and emotional wellbeing.”

It isn’t just warm clime folks, either, who roll out mats regardless of rocks and roots and bugs. From Missoula to Minneapolis, any place where the winters are long and dark, the sun-starved come out in droves in the summertime.

Frank was a fair weather man, but some don’t wait for the solstice.

Members of ‘Y-8’ routinely practice their ‘Alsteryoga’ on the thick ice of the rock- hard Lake Alster outside the northern German town of Hamburg. They make sure to pull the hoods of their insulated sweatshirts over their heads when in headstand.

Whether it’s ice or sand or grass, the instability of ground outdoors makes for an easier said than done experience. Some people even practice on paddleboards when rivers and lakes have defrosted. “When you’re not on a solid wood floor surface, you end up using different parts of your body,” said Jennifer Walker, an instructor in Maine. “Outside, you end up engaging your core much more to stabilize your whole body.”

Although Frank Glass often got out into their backyard in the summer and fall, he still rolled out his mat indoors more often than not because he had carved out a space he liked at home, and because the weather in Lakewood, just outside of Cleveland, is unpredictable, while the midges and mosquitoes that fly up out of the Rocky River valley are predictable.

Sometimes, though, he jumped the traces.

The three mostly sunny weeks he and his wife Vera spent in North Rustico, on the north central coast of the island, at the Coastline Cottages, he moved his mat outside. Sometimes in the morning, but more often in the afternoon, when the crab apple trees at the back of their cottage cast welcome shadows, he unspooled it on the grass and set about doing yoga exercises, warming up with sun salutations.

“When I practice outdoors, there is this amazing energy,” said Angela Jackson, an instructor in Oakville, Ontario. “I feel more connected to the earth, the birds, the animals, the sky, and to myself.”

He did it almost every day, because they were on vacation with plenty of time, and because the days were warm, and it was fair and breezy where they were on the Atlantic Ocean. He was bitten every one of those days, sometimes more often than less, by creeping flying bugs, occasionally by black flies from the scrubby conifer woods next to the fifty acres of soybeans behind the cottages.

Prince Edward Island is predominately a farming and fishing province. There are croplands and cattle and fishing boats everywhere. A few years earlier they had stayed in a cottage one town down next to a field and a barn full of cows and thousands of flies. Every room in the cottage came equipped with a fly swatter. They checked to be sure all the screens were safe and sound and in place.

The reason we feel more connected to the earth when we do yoga outdoors is because we are standing directly on the earth, on the soil and grass of it. PEI is made of soft sandstone and its soil is an iron oxide red. The contrast of bright green grass and red land beneath a high blue sky on a sunny summer day is always striking.

Frank saw lots of sky doing things on his back on his mat behind the cottage. Insects crawling took shortcuts under him, the long way over him, or just bumped into him and zigzagged away. Seaside birds flew overhead. Most of them were cormorants, an easy to spot coastal bird with short wings and a long neck. There were plenty of wood warblers and a couple of yellow-bellied sapsuckers, darting in and out of the crab apple trees.

One afternoon behind their cottage a week-and-a-half into their stay on the island, a red fox hunkered down thirty-some feet away on the grass and kept his eyes on Frank for a long time. The fox surprised him, out in the open, even though he knew they were all over the north shore. They had seen plenty of them, on the shoulders of roads, or the edge of woods, always looking for handouts.

Vera ran on the all-purpose path every day and kept a wary eye out for them.

From 1900 until the 1930s black silver fox farming – the silver fox is a mutation of the island’s ubiquitous red fox – was a booming cash crop on PEI farms. Fox pelts were in high style but used to cost an arm and a leg because they could only be got from trappers. No one knew how to raise them until in the 1890s two men, a druggist and a farmer, perfected a way to domesticate and breed them.

It made many of the locals rich. The price for a bred fox pelt, never mind a trapped pelt, in 1910 was a jaw-dropping $1,200.00. To put that into perspective, farm laborers on the island in 1910 averaged a dollar a day in pay for ten-and- twelve-hour days.

The Great Depression and changing fashion in the 1940s crippled the market and by the 1950s fox farming was finished on the island. Most farmers simply let their animals loose. The foxes were glad to go, glad to be back on their own, glad to not have to be a fashion statement anymore.

“My grandfather raised horses, and kept foxes for their pelts,” said Kelly Doyle, a North Rustico native whose Coastline Cottages they were staying at. “But then they weren’t cool anymore, so he let all his foxes out, and since my father couldn’t make a living at that became a farmer.”

Rubbing eyes with a fox in woods or fields used to be out of the ordinary, but nowadays sighting have become commonplace.

“Whereas foxes once avoided human contact, they now venture up to parked cars, presumably looking for food,” said Ryan O’Connor, who grew up on PEI and is a historian of Canada’s environmental movement.

Although some of the issues with yoga in the great outdoors are biting bugs and bad weather and sometimes too much sunshine, rarely is the issue a wild animal. Red foxes are wild, but not so wild, too. They live in woodlots and sand dunes, are intelligent and adaptable, and have no trouble living in close association with human beings.

They are still wild, though, living out in the wild.

One moonless night, sitting on their deck overlooking Doyle’s Cove, they heard a god-awful noise somewhere out on the long dark sloping lawn. The next morning Kelly Doyle had to clean up the remains of a dismembered rabbit. Every fox hunts every night for mice rabbits voles.

Frank don’t know when the red fox slipped behind their cottage to watch him on the yoga mat. He saw him midway through his series for the day, when he lengthened into plank from down dog and transitioned into up dog, and there the fox was, nearly near-at-hand.

There is a rule at the Coastline Cottages. “Don’t Feed the Animals.” The rule is to discourage foxes from loitering, looking for food for their kits. Frank and Vera hadn’t seen anyone breaking the rule, because who wants a fox at their door cadging for a handout? But there was the red fox, plain as day, behind their cottage, giving Frank the once over.

“They won’t bother you, or bite you,” Kelly had told them.

Frank had no reason to doubt him, so he continued doing what he was doing, sneaking a peek at the animal now and then. The fox wasn’t small or overly large, maybe 20 or 25 pounds, with a reddish-brown coat, white under belly, and a black-tipped nose. One of his eyes was cloudy, as though the animal had been hurt or had a cataract.

He lounged and shifted and moved more like a cat than a dog, although foxes are a part of the dog family. His ears were triangular. When he cocked his head and his ears went up erect, he looked like a Maine Coon cat with his muzzle in mousing position.

All during the rest of Frank’s yoga practice that afternoon the fox never made a sound, and even seemed to doze off for a few minutes. He stretched and yawned. When he went away, sliding into the soybean field, he walked on his toes, heels off the ground, agile canny swift. No amount of yoga Frank ever did was ever going to get him to be able to move like that.

He didn’t see the fox with the bad eye again the rest of their stay, although Vera spotted him one day miles away near MacNeill’s Brook.

Living far north of Mason-Dixon, Vera was by necessity forced to run on a treadmill and Frank to do yoga indoors most of the time. But moving one’s mat outdoors isn’t necessarily for the birds, if only because that’s where the energy is. The fountainhead is under the arching sky in the wide blue yonder.

In the world of yoga, the word prana means energy or life force and pranayama means breathing exercises. To practice outdoors is to be immersed in the source of prana, whether you mean it as the source of life or simply as the air we breathe.

Bringing a breath of back roads air into your body mind spirit is refreshing. Great wafts of it are even better. It’s no holds barred taking in the old-school oxygen of the island. There’s more air in the air on the edge of the Atlantic Ocean than there is in most other places.

There was more than enough of it for both the red fox and Frank the afternoon they shared it, both of them dwarfed by a sweeping horizon and puffy white clouds blowing out to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, behind a cottage next to a soybean field.

“How was it?” Vera asked when Frank stepped back inside through the door.

“It was a breath of fresh air in my brain,” he said.

A version of this story appeared in International Yoga Journal.

Ed Staskus posts monthly on 147 Stanley Street http://www.147stanleystreet.com, Made in Cleveland http://www.clevelandohiodaybook.com, Atlantic Canada http://www.redroadpei.com, and Lithuanian Journal http://www.lithuanianjournal.com

A New Maritime Thriller by Ed Staskus

“Ebb Tide”

“Small book, big story.” Barron Cannon, Adventure Books

“A Down East crime mystery, wildlife and all.” Sam Winchell, Beyond Fiction

Available on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CVDP8B58

Atlantic Canada, 1989. A town on the Gulf of St. Lawrence. A satchel of stolen counterfeit money. Two contract killers from Montreal. A gravel road cop stands in their way.